Food appears

Last night as people's stomachs were growling, I went down to town with some others, with the hope that something would have magically opened up. A few villagers were out and about, and they again told us that everyone was at the fiesta. But then two women started talking and one thing led to another, and before we knew it we had a beautiful tortilla española, a dozen eggs from the chicken coop, a huge round loaf of excellent gallego bread, a bag of potatoes from the garden, and two bottles of wine. Only after much cajoling did we convince them to accept some money. As we arrived back at the albergue, a car pulled up with a young woman who had overheard the conversation, bringing some white asparagus, olives, fruit, some cookies for dessert. The result was nine well-fed and very happy pilgrims, blessed once again by the kindness of random strangers.

Left over potatoes became hash browns for breakfast and most everyone was on the road by 7. It was a very short day by recent standards, only 20 km, and by noon we were sitting in a cafe overlooking the ocean.  It was a very pleasant walk, nearly all off road, and for the last 9 km, we got frequent glimpses of the ocean in the brilliant sun. Rain has left us, hooray. 

My phone died on the walk, so I'm sure you'll be sorry to know I can't post any pictures of the beautiful Romanesque doorway in the Moraime church. But just to make up for it, on my way out to the church on the rocky point where Mary is reported to have appeared, a Romanesque church I've never been able to get into was magically open. Which means I can post a Romanesque picture or two after all! 

But the highlight of any trip to Muxia has to be a visit to the sanctuary of Mary. Mary is reputed to have landed here in a boat and the large rock you see sticking up is said to have been the boat's sail, which then petrified. Anyone who crawls all the way through the openings will be cured of many ailments. Whatever the truth if all if this, there is no dispute that it's an incredible place. Even a hyper-active person like me can sit and just enjoy the beauty for a long long time. It was a beautiful afternoon. 

Unfortunately, the church was struck by lightening on Christmas Day last year and many priceless statues and artifacts burned. But reconstruction is underway. 

Tomorrow is my last day of walking. Can't believe it. I hope that tomorrow, my fourth visit to the lighthouse at Finisterre, it will be clear so I can see the sunset. So far it's always been cloudy. If the weather holds, this could be my lucky year!