A three day detour of splendor in the mountains

This was one of these total strokes of luck (or as Reb would probably say, of divine providence). The stars aligned so Reb and I could walk together. I arrived alone into Ponferrada, Reb drove in from Moratinos, and on Sunday night we met up in the new and very nice albergue, Alea.

On Monday early in the morning we started a three day circle that would take us up into the Valle del Silencio and then back into Ponferrada. I honestly don't think I've ever had any three consecutive days walking on any Camino with more mountain beauty packed in day after day after day. 

Our first day took us up to El Acebo, but on an amazing trail called the Puentes de Malpaso, a pretty strenuous mountain hike that took us across two valleys and over some beautiful old medieval bridges.   This was our view from our B&B looking down into the valley into which we would descend (and ascend again into the next valley) the next day.

The second day took us down to a Roman forge which was still operational and involved some ingenious uses of water, then up to the ridge and back down again over to the next valley 

where we finally arrived at Peñalba de Santiago, where we had reservations at a terrific little place, La Masera. Aside from just the jaw-dropping beauty of the town itself 

we also had a visit to the 10th century Mozarabic church 

And a 4 km hike through Holms oaks and along the river to the cave where early Christian hermits are reported to have spent time, San Genadio being the most notable. 

After an overpriced but atmosphere-laden dinner on the terrace of a cantina of cheese plate, salad, "scalded" chorizo with yummy potatoes and some Bierzo wine overlooking the mountains all around us (and I say overpriced loosely because where else could you sit for two hours and look out over this beauty for 15€ each?) , we returned to our great little place 

and slept like babies. 

Today's hike involved more ups and downs from one valley to another and many amazing moments of beauty. We walked a laberynth on a mountain top and shouted out to no one in particular that we were here and alive and grateful.  Some of the descents were rough but many were on Roman roads or on Roman channels so the sense of history and agelessness took our attention away from our creaking knees. 

In the small town of Montes de Valdueza, we arrived magically at the appointed hour for a tour of the monastery dating back to our pal San Genadio's days, most of it now in ruins but so impressive nonetheless. 

From there it was five more hours following the river and walking through isolated mountain villages till Ponferrada was once again in our grasp. At the medieval bridge where we had started out, I took my first selfie with my dear friend Rebekah to commemorate that the circle was now complete. 

(See the medieval bridge artfully placed between us?). 

We said our goodbyes back at the same place where we had met up and thus ended one of my most amazing walks ever. 

I'm now back on the "moving sidewalk" of the Camino Francés and will not detour off to the Camino del Invierno, which is lovely but totally lonely. I will wing this entirely -- no guidebook and no reservations. Just a chance to see a part of the camino I haven't seen for at least nine years. A lot has changed I'm sure.