In Boñar, with plenty of time to kill

Leaving Cistierna, I was on familiar ground for a while because the Vadiniense (a camino I walked several years ago, which is also totally untravelled) passes through here.

A km or two after the bridge, though, we split. 

Today's walk was pretty flat, pretty much off road, past the requisite number of Romanesque churches (always at least 3 or 4) and seemingly a transition stage between the montaña palestina and the León side of the picos.

Though I didn't walk by any coal mines today, I was paralleling the FEVE (narrow gauge RR) and occasionally these cute little cars filled with coal would go chugging by.

Though I'm walking alone I find that villagers are usually happy to talk for a while while I rest. And today I had a call from another peregrina who's currently walking the camino I walked last year. She says it's very hot-- not up here, thankfully. In fact I almost dug out my wool gloves today when I started walking because it was very chilly. 

Under normal circumstances I might not be thrilled to have an afternoon to spend in Boñar, but last night I got an email from a friend who lives on the camino Francés and not too far away. She's planning to drive up for a visit-- lucky me! 

This town is known for its cecina and it's sweets so I'll have to try some and report back. 

Into Cistierna

I have walked into the sad town of Cistierna before, when I was walking a more north to south camino, the Vadiniense. It wasn't much of a walk that day. But today!  Coming in from the west through the mountains was one of those five star, top ten days. Cistierna is still a sad little town, but I know now that it is but a few kms from some incredible mountain scenery.

Since the day was going to be such a short one and the temperatures so low I decided to sleep in till 7:45. Unheard of for a peregrina. Breakfast at 8:15 and soon after 8:30 I was on my way back up to the mountain splendor. 

There were a couple of little detours to a small monastery in ruins (never found it) and to a big piece of Roman road so I took my time knowing that my destination didn't have much charm waiting at the end of the road. 

I also spent about 45 minutes standing and patiently waiting for the huge growling barking dog to go up the mountain with his sheep. 

Though this town has an albergue I opted for the 25 euro room at the Hostal Moderno where I ate a fabulous meal last time I was through. Good thing I did, too because I needed some help getting a tick out of my back. Two I was able to tweeze out myself but not that third one!  Lots of ticks this year because of the wet mild winter. I have never had a tick on any camino ever and now I have a few a day. In fact, yesterday after a quick walk around I looked in the mirror and saw one on my face!  

Off to what smells like it's going to be a great Sunday dinner!  

In La Velilla

Today started out rather grim. 

7 km alongside a regional road. Not much traffic but not much beauty either. But in La Espina things took a turn for the better. Newly marked off road alternatives  took me down to Puente de Almuhey, from there more off road tracks along the Tuejar River and by 1pm, just as it was starting to sprinkle, I made it to my destination --a nice casa rural next to the old Velilla church with a big old statue of Santiago in case anyone doubts the authenticity of this route. 

After a big loud thunderstorm the sun came out and I decided to visit the little town next door -- not much going on except cows lying in the streets and men sitting on the stoop. 

But then came the big surprise. I decided to start up tomorrow's path and after a km or two, this is where I was: 

Amazing -- and I get to go back tomorrow!  

A long long day

I left the hotel around 7:30 knowing that my first challenge would be a 9 k route up to an abandoned coal mine and then across a ridge and through woods to a small town. Just as I thought, the walk up to the mine was easy, well marked, good surface, all very obvious,

but then lots of crisscrossing trails and a lack of marking made it rough. But it was beautiful -- thankfully I could enjoy the beauty because of the tracks Susanna had made for the gps. I don't know how she did it but she is a miracle lady. I would not have found my way without them (I had a backup plan but didn't need it, thankfully).

Is this an arrow????

Then for about the next four or five hours the path went through fields with the mountains in the back. 

I was very happy to arrive in Guardo, even though it's not much of a town. I think I have set my distance record and will take a shorter day tomorrow. 

On to plan B

Woke up this morning to the sound of rain and to hear what I was expecting -- my pal is heading home. I'm going to walk a bit more and see how it goes. I don't mind walking alone at all but it gets lonely at night. So I'll take a look at a map of Spain tonight and decide whether to forge ahead or move over to another camino.

Today's walk started out with a few curve balls but ended with a very nice 12 k walk on a dirt road along the rushing Pisuerga River. I left the hotel about 7:45, after waiting for a while for the rain to let up. The first half hour or so up to the top of a dam was rainy but soon stopped and never started again. 

At my first town I had my first encounter of the day with unchained growling barking dogs. I just stood there calling loudly and finally someone came to pull the worst offender away. I quickly walked up through the town and was on my way out when I realized that my rain poncho, which I had cleverly left draped over my pack, must have fallen off. So I had to go back through the mean dog gauntlet. Fortunately another woman who heard all the commotion came out, and she walked me back to the beginning of town and yelled at all the dogs.  Retracing my steps, I found the poncho about five minutes before the entrance to town, but no way was I going to walk back through a third time. So I found some farm paths and circumnavigated the lovely town of Corvio and quickly found the turn-off for the medieval rock graves --about seven in a row of all sizes, with all feet pointing towards sunrise. 

Next came the guide's warning to look for an unmarked untraveled turn-off to the left. I had already prepared myself for the inevitability of getting lost, but somehow after what seemed like an eternity of going in circles, I saw a town below, and figured it had to be Matamorisca (which translates, I think, into "kill the young moorish woman.")  A very kind woman helped me get back on track and offered to drive me to my destination, still about 20 k away, but you all know my response.  

From there the day went without a hitch except for a few more unchained barking dogs in two towns ending in "of Zalima", who may well be the young moorish woman referred to in the previous town. 

The last 12k or so were wonderful, alongside a river on a dirt road the whole way into my destination. 

So now the sun is shining, the temperature is in the high 60s, my clothes are drying and the supermarket opens in a half hour. Perfect!  

A megalithic, Roman, and Romanesque day

Today´s walk was great.  Through fields, over old roman and medieval bridges, on a couple of stretches of the Roman Road, several small country romanesque churches sitting out in fields, and even a castle thrown in for good measure.

We left our palatial surroundings at Casa Miguel around 7:40, and followed the arrows to the single arch ancient bridge whose name I forget.  Forging confidently ahead, we were sure we were following the Camino on our way to the town of Casasola, and when we saw a farmer in the fields next to us, I thought I´d ask just out of an abundance of caution.  But NO, we were heading in the wrong direction, so this lovely man took us back to the right place, pointed us in the right direction and through the right fence we went.  At that point we were on the top of a hill, but could see the gravel path waiting for us below below, separated from us by a little river of some size.  Suddenly about 15 horses came stampeding past us, so we stopped to let them by.  Then came their herder, whom I asked "How do we get down to the path?"  His answer:  "Bajar" (go down).  DUH.  We made it and were rewarded by some ancient standing stones, a roman bridge and a nice walk through open fields.

But nothing good lasts forever, and when we arrived at our third and final stretch on the Roman Road, my walking partner let me know that her feet were killing her.  We still had six km, all on a path, but all alongside a highway.  So I just flagged down the next passing car, and asked the driver if she would take my friend into town.  No problem.  I had to walk those six kms alone, but I´m used to that!  Even got to visit a castle and another romanesque church along the way.

We joined up in the booming town of Aguilar de Campoo, where my ATM card was waiting for me in the Hotel Valentín, sent via UPS last week.  After showers and lunch in the hotel dining room, I left to take a tour of town and scout out options for those who might not be walking tomorrow.  Buses are really the only option, so we´ll see.

I know how this feels, to be at the point that you want to walk so badly but your feet are just telling you no way.  We´ll see what she chooses to do, but I´ll be walking tomorrow and will have to figure out what my Plan B is once she decides what her Plan B is!  But with credit cards and phone in hand, I have no worries.

Another 35 km day

We are now at the point that if we have a stage of 30 or less, it will feel like a piece of cake. But today's walk had some very nice highlights--the roman ruins at Juliobriga and a beautiful Romanesque church in Cervatos (though it does have a strange number of x- rated capitals, which is kind of hard to figure out.

G-rated capital. 

We had a couple of large-ish ascents so we are glad to be where we have a bed and --gasp-- a washer and dryer. Such luxury!  

Roman ruins from the bell tower of a medieval church. 

Into Arija

Another mis-marked day. Turned out it was 31 instead of the 27 or 28 we saw on the guide. Some nice hikes up to mountain villages, a km or two through swamp like conditions but miraculously my feet stayed dry. We are in a town with no charm on the banks of the Ebro Reservoir. All the charm was probably submerged when they built it--400 houses, 8 churches, and two chapels were lost. 

Tomorrow probably won't be a beautiful day but soon after we will hit the mountains, which we can see in the distance already. 

My feet are doing great. Knock on wood!!! 

Fine dining in Arija. The plates are courtesy of the little girl whose mom owns the store. She just had her ninth birthday party. 

Day four -- tricked again !

No it wasn't 28, it was more like 35. We had a good but hard day. Now in Pedrosa looking at some amazing rock faces. We saw some anthropomorphic tombs and felt pretty somber for a while. Then a pretty hefty 300 m ascent to some amazing views and finally a walk through the eerie abandoned rail line that was going to connect Santander on the north coast to the Mediterranean   It it was all abandoned, leaving tunnels, rail lines, stations and overpasses. We were even walking on the old rail bed for a while, which is a great surface for walking.  Tomorrow onward to Arija!

Thunderstorms in the forecast

We left early because of predicted storms for early afternoon. Depending on whose calculation you use we had anywhere between 30 and 40 km. Of course at the end of the day we know for sure because of the gps.

First piece of business. We took a taxi back to Nava de Ordunte (where we had left the Camino for our detour to visit the Romanesque churches) and from there we were headed to Espinosa de los Monteros.  What was written as 24 km turned out to be 37 on the gps.   

Highlight of the day -- to get out of the taxi and see someone waiting to walk with us. It was Adolfo of the Bilbao Association who wanted to walk the first 25 or so with us!!!  It is a glorious day of walking. To a reservoir, along country lanes through little hamlets with flowers spilling out of every window, up some big hills alongside a river, a few waterfalls, through green tunnels, and a few Romanesque churches thrown in for good measure!  Perfect in every way. The marking was generally great but a few times we were very glad Adolfo was with us because we might still be out there looking for the way into Bercedo.

After an hour long rest with Adolfo and his ride home (his son) we filled our packs with cherries from their garden and some local specialties called troncos-- chorizo-filled bread from wood ovens. The last 11 or so we were on our own and made it in good time to Espinosa. Tomorrow is "only" 28 (we've heard that before though) to a casa rural and closer to the mountains!  Buen camino, Laurie.

Ps. Not a drop of rain fell, temps are cooling and no more rain in the forecast!  

 

 

Detour for Romanesque churches

We made the mistake of leaving around 9 am, thinking that since we only had 14 k to the town from which we'd saunter 10 lazy kms out to the churches, it'd be an easy day. Well once again the distance turned out to be wrong --it was 19 k to the town. And it is hot --32 in the shade outside our window. And we made a few wrong turns!

We had some really nice walks through small hamlets and a long stretch between a canal and a river.  Very pretty countryside with big rocky mountains now looming ahead. 

So we didn't get to our hotel till nearly 2pm and it was well after 3 before we set out to see these amazing little churches in the middle of nowhere but along nice river paths. No pack on my back means I felt like I was flying. 

The churches were absolutely amazing and I am so glad to have seen them, both from the 12th century and in terrific condition. As I was leaving the second one, it began to pour. (Susanna had gone back after the first because the sky was getting really dark. But I decided I was never coming back here so how could I pass it up).  The woman with the key to the church took me into her garage and as we waited for the rain to stop, her neighbor drove up and took me back to town. So on my second day on the Camino I've already taken a ride!  

 

Our First Day!

Susanna arrived last night at about 10:30.  We went to get her something to eat, were giddy about our walk, and then went to bed.  Jet lag is not too bad.  Got up at 6:30, used our electric coils to make tea and fancy Starbucks instant coffee (THANKS, Katy), and were on our way in a little more than an hour.

It was a LONG day with a lot of asphalt, 37.5 km according to Susanna´s GPS.  My GPS told me I walked 4,986 km because it had started me from home.  So I am not very proficient with this, which probably surprises no one.  The walk was very pretty, usually alongside a nice cool river, through a few towns, and then into the nice little town of Balmaseda.

We walked through one town with its weekly market, and a very nice guy cut us two big slices of sweet juicy melon.  Delicious.  Saw a few protests about the coronation of the new king, nothing too fierce, though.

We´re sitting in an official Basque Cultural Center and Susanna is fixing our gps devices, all of which apparently need new tracks.  She is in communication with our pal Gunnar from Belgium who is orchestrating all of this from behind the big curtain.  I am of no use whatsover except to translate what the screen tells Susanna.

Off to the grocery store, then dinner at 8:30.  We have a very short day tomorrow.  13 km to the next town, drop off our packs in the hotel and take a 10 km stroll out along another river to visit some very pretty (at least that´s how they seem from the pictures I´ve seen) romanesque churches.

It´s been kind of hot for walking, probably over 80, but cooling is on the horizon.  Buen camino everyone, love you. 

Made it to Bilbao.

I left Champaign on a flight around noon. When at 8 pm my plane flew over Cincinnati I realized I was not on the direct route to Madrid, having gone to Chicago to Dallas to Madrid and finally Bilbao. My plane from Dallas was 45 minutes late, giving me exactly one half hour to exit the plane from Row 31, go through customs, take the train to the main terminal, go through security and then get to my gate. When I got about two gates from J33, I saw a man waving and calling -- señora Reynolds, con prisa.  That was the closest connection I have ever made. 

So I've spent a few hours walking in Bilbao and am ready to sleep. I don't know why after all these trips to Spain but I am still always blown away by the huge multi-generational crowds in plazas in late afternoon. If I saw these huge gatherings at home I would assume something awful was going on. Such a fun place to sit and watch. Bilbao strikes me as a very happy city. 

Susanna should get here around 11pm so time for a rest. Tomorrow we walk! 

Heading out for the Camino Olvidado

With about twenty minutes before I have to leave for the airport, what better way to pass the time than to start this blog.  My pack is packed, my check list has been checked, and my boots are on.  Nothing else for now.

So, this year I will be walking another new Camino.  It is another one of the very remote ones, so I felt very happy when my "Camino friend" Susanna from Sweden and I decided we would try this one together.  We even have the tracks on a gps (but in a good division of labor, Susanna is the gps expert, I am the gps idiot).  We have done lots and lots of research and are feeling like we know what we are getting into.

Tomorrow we meet up in Bilbao, Pension de la Fuente, and then on Thursday start in a southwest direction.  We go through some great mountain territory and plan to take a day or two to stop and do day hikes to enjoy the mountains more.  In about 18 days, we will arrive in Ponferrada, which is on the Camino Frances (but this will be our only day on the Camino Frances).  From there we will take another detour, to this amazing little place  http://lamasera.blogspot.com  We will spend three or four days doing day hikes and then get on the Camino de Invierno.  I walked this Camino alone several years ago and it is beautiful and very un-traveled.  So having company will make this Camino even nicer.  I have a couple of friends who live in Galicia near this camino, so we may have some time to visit.

But in any event, our plan is to arrive in Santiago for the saint's day, July 24-25.  There is a huge fireworks party in the cathedra square, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Lp3tlafUOLs.  Not my kind of thing, really, but everyone says it is something to see at least once in your life.  So that will be my end of Camino.

Hoping that all goes well, and I will be trying to put pictures in this blog as I go.  We'll see if I can do that!  Buen camino, friends and loved ones.  Laurie